Kook Report

I went surfing yesterday after work at La Jolla Shores around 5:00. I hadn't checked the surf report beforehand and was a little suprised by how big it was, but I paddled out anyway. Once I got out in the lineup I noticed that there weren't too many people out and almost no longboarders. Then I noticed the lifeguard jetski. Then I noticed that the chest-high waves that I paddled out through happened to be part of one of the smaller sets. Almost everything else was head high. Eek! I caught a wave and rode it for a little while before falling. I was in the impact zone, waves were coming in, and the safest thing to do was to head back out to the lineup. I hung out for a while watching folks take off. I took what looked like a smaller wave and ended up falling again. This time the leash slipped off my foot and the board went to shore. I swam after it and decided that these conditions were really beyond my ability. I played in the white for quite a while, had fun, and practiced turning. The real waves would break further out and then the white would reform into peaks and break again close to shore. These were 2-3' high, were smooth, and were very rideable. When I got home I saw online that there was some freakish offshore storm that had caused unusually large surf starting Sunday. The swell was at its biggest today, so I'm glad I kooked out on Monday rather than today.